Easy Wheelie Progression on the Yozma IN 10: My Beginner-Friendly Method
September 24, 2025
Wheelies look like a “go fast and yank” thing from the outside, but learning them the right way is way more about control than courage. I spent time on the Yozma IN 10 mini electric dirt bike working through a beginner-friendly progression that builds real balance-point control—without sending you flying across a parking lot.
This is the exact approach I’d use if you handed me an IN 10 and said “teach me from zero.”
Setup First (This Matters More Than People Think)
Before I even try to pop the front end up, I set the bike up so my body isn’t fighting the controls.
Brake lever angle
If the rear brake lever sits too high, my wrist and forearm end up in an awkward position the second the front wheel comes up. That adds strain and makes brake control inconsistent. I angle the lever to a comfortable, natural reach so I can keep a finger on it without contorting my arm.
Brake sensors
For wheelie practice, I want to be able to engage the brake while still using the throttle. If the bike’s brake sensors cut power when I touch the lever, that can interfere with smooth control. I remove/disable the brake sensors for this kind of practice.
Break everything in
I ride the bike normally first. I want the brakes bedded in and I want basic familiarity with how the throttle responds before I try lifting the front wheel.
Choose a safer practice surface
I start on grass. It’s a lot more forgiving than concrete when you’re learning and your timing isn’t dialed.
The Real Goal: Balance Point (Not Speed)
A lot of beginners think the point of a wheelie is going faster. For me, speed is the distraction that teaches bad habits.
What I’m chasing is balance point—where the bike feels light and “floats,” and I can let off the throttle briefly without the front end immediately dropping.
I think about balance point in three stages:
1) Low balance point
The front is up, but I’m still “chasing” the wheelie with throttle.
2) True balance point
The bike feels weightless. I can back off the throttle and it stays up. This is where control starts.
3) Back of balance point
I’m right on the edge of looping out. This is where the rear brake becomes my best friend.
If you want smooth wheelies, true balance point is the target.
Rear Brake Control: Taps, Not Panic
Rear brake technique is everything.
When I’m near balance point, I’m not slamming the brake and I’m not necessarily dragging it. I’m giving small, controlled taps. Those little inputs smooth out the wheelie and keep it from looking (and feeling) jerky.
If I’m way too far back, that’s when I’ll drag the brake more to bring it down safely.
One more thing: I keep at least one finger on the rear brake. It’s my lifeline.
Learn the Pop Before You Try to “Ride It Out”
A wheelie starts with the pop—getting the front end up to the right height without looping or barely lifting.
I like drilling this as a standalone skill:
Pop, then stop it with the brake.
If the bike drops immediately when I brake, that usually means I didn’t pop it high enough.
If the bike wants to rip over backward, I popped too hard (or I’m yanking my body too far back too early).
It’s a fine-tuned middle ground, and repetition is what builds it.
Body Position: Move Around and Feel What Changes
When I’m learning or dialing in a new bike, I intentionally exaggerate body position changes.
Lean too far forward and the front wants to come down.
Lean too far back and I’m flirting with a loop.
Playing with body position on a forgiving surface helps me understand what the bike wants.
One thing I noticed on the IN 10: the seat felt slippery. That can be annoying when you’re just cruising, but for wheelie practice it actually pushes you toward that “floating” balance-point feel—because you can’t just lock yourself into one spot and muscle it.
My Favorite Beginner Drill: Slow Circles
If I’m starting from scratch (or helping someone else learn), I actually like circles because they keep everything slow and controlled.
A circle wheelie also forces brake use and body positioning. It’s not about blasting forward—it’s about using one foot as a pivot point and learning the relationship between throttle, brake, and balance.
How I do it:
One foot down as a pivot
I try to keep that foot near the same spot as I rotate.
Tighter circle = more control work
The tighter I go, the more I’m using brake control, and the further back I need to be to keep the turn.
Turning tip
I’ve found the further back I am (closer to the back of balance point), the easier it is to turn sharply.
Straight Lines (But Only If I Can Keep It Slow)
Once the circle work starts to click, I move to straight lines—but with one rule:
If I start gaining speed, I set the front wheel down.
Chasing the wheelie faster and faster doesn’t build real skill. What I want is the ability to wheelie slowly enough that I can:
Continue with throttle
Stop/settle with brake
Continue again with throttle
That stop-and-go control is what translates into longer, cleaner wheelies later.
A practical way to progress is distance goals in a parking lot: start with a couple spaces, then four, then eight, and keep building.
Footwork Progression: One Foot Down to Feet Up
I progress in layers:
Two feet down: more stability, easier early reps
One foot down: controlled pivot and balance learning
Both feet up: harder, but teaches left-right balance and commitment
The big thing is not rushing it. The bike will tell you when you’re ready.
Using Suspension to Help the Front Come Up
One thing I pay attention to with different e-motos: some bikes wheelie just by cracking the throttle, while others respond better when I use the suspension.
On the IN 10, using the suspension can help the pop—especially once you’re trying to do feet-up wheelies while rolling. Compress the front a bit and time the throttle as it unloads.
Wrist Position: A Small Fix That Helps a Lot
This is a subtle one, but it makes a difference.
If my wrist starts too “high” on the throttle, when the bars rotate upward during the wheelie, it can unintentionally cause me to roll off the throttle. I aim for a wrist position that stays comfortable through the bar rotation so my inputs stay consistent.
What We Like
Beginner-friendly learning pace: I can practice real technique without feeling like the bike is trying to punish mistakes.
Great fundamentals builder: It encourages balance-point work instead of pure power wheelies.
Rear brake control becomes second nature fast because you have to use it correctly.
It reinforces the “slow bike fast” mindset: more fun, more reps, less fear.
Things To Consider
Disable/remove brake sensors for wheelie practice if they interfere with throttle + brake overlap.
The seat felt slippery during practice; that can affect confidence until you adjust.
Expect a learning curve if you’re coming from bikes that wheelie purely off power—on this style of bike, timing and technique matter more.
Practice on grass and wear protective gear. Loop-outs happen during learning, even at low speed.
Final Thoughts
Wheelies are a skill you earn through seat time, not something you unlock with one “secret tip.” On the Yozma IN 10, I got the best results by treating wheelies like a slow-control exercise: set the lever up right, keep a finger on the rear brake, practice the pop, then build toward true balance point with small brake taps.
If you can wheelie slowly enough to stop and continue on command, you’re learning the right thing. Everything else—distance, speed, style—comes later.
Links
Yozma IN 10 (use promo code RUNPLAYBACK for a discount): https://www.yozmasport.com/?ref=RUNPLAYBACK
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